Ujung Kulon

OVERRATED

• Where on earth is that. Perhaps even Indonesians themselves don't know where it is and how to get there ! It's simply dangerous, it's a wildlife, pythons on tree disguised as branches, crocodiles, and rhinos ! That's not for you and better skip it, better hangout with other tourists and have a beer in clubs in Bali or Gili. That's fun.
• Getting there is already difficult, takes almost one day just to get to the last village, Taman Jaya. And certainly have to wait for another day and have to sleep at a cozy homestay Sunda Jaya, at the quiet village of Taman Jaya.
• The last mile between Sumur and Taman Jaya is terrible. The road is bad, like nobody cares. And no decent vehicle dares to take tourists through that road except for a few local public minibuses. Forget Ujung Kulon ... but then, you don't know what you're missing. A fantastic view overlooking the Selamat Datang (Welcome) Bay with Ujung Kulon mainland at the distance. And to the left, the green ricefields so beautiful with Mount Honje at the background.
• Sunda Jaya is not a five star hotel, no air-con. A cozy homestay with few rooms only. Located at Taman Jaya about 50 meters from the beach. Each rooms with twin beds, mosquito net, and a fan. Toilets outside. No restaurants, no room service. But, there is always somebody who can prepare a decent meal for you 24 hours a day. You are not a stranger. A tourist, a guest, yes.
• People at Taman Jaya are very friendly and used to see foreigners, perhaps one or two kids will hang around for hours and expect you to teach them English.
• Early morning you will leave Taman Jaya by a slow wooden boat for Handeuelum Island. There's a guest house (a lodge) at Handeuleum, newly renovated. Some deers wander freely grazing. It's here the canoes are tugged from to the estuary of Cigenter river.
• Canoeing into the deep forest ! Scary ... but Cigenter is fantastic. Quiet, very quiet except for the sound of nature, birds, cicadas. One or two birds will usually fly from one tree to another and follow your canoe. Keep your eyes open, perhaps a python might be sleeping on a tree branch above you. And if you are very very lucky, who knows maybe you could catch a glimpse of a shy rhino behind the trees.
• From Cigenter, back to the estuary, back to the boat proceed to Peucang Island.
• Again, Peucang Lodge is not a five-star resort. It's just basic. No air-con either. Fan only. Ah, but there's a restaurant. Peucang Island is a lot bigger than Handeuleum Island. Deers, monkeys, wild boars wander freely. At night they sleep in the forest and you can hear them from your lodge.
• Trekking is not comfortable, no pavements ! What do you expect ? It's muddy most of the time, your shoes get dirty. But again, sorry to miss, how many times in your life did you trek into a rainforest ? Ujung Kulon is one of the not so many places left where you can feel like lost in the middle of nowhere.
• Wake up early to the sound of nature. Walk to the pier, walk on the beach, wait for the sunrise, see and listen to the wildlife starts a new day.